Looking back at a board we built in our Australia shop back in 2015, it’s amazing to see how much has changed. Since then, I’ve moved to Canada, opened a shop in Ohio, and had thousands of conversations with guitarists about what makes a guitar rig truly exceptional.

If I had to do this build again today, here is exactly what I would change—and the few things I’m proud to say we’re still doing.

The Evolution of the Build: What I’d Change

1. Ergonomics & Accessibility (The "Moot" Point)

First off, we tried being cute by making a spelling mistake: a switch labeled "MOOT" instead of "MUTE." Todays Goodwood doesn't mess with grammar. 

The mute switch was tucked away in a spot that’s difficult to hit quickly. On a modern build, I would raise it up on a riser. If you’re seconds away from a solo and need to tune, you shouldn't have to hunt for a switch; your foot should find it instinctively.

On todays boards we'd put something like The TX Interfacer in an easy to access spot on the board.

2. Securing the Goods: These days we love Dual Lock 

In 2015, we weren't the biggest fans of Dual Lock because if you use the wrong amount, pedals pop off in transit - becoming a wrecking ball inside of your pedalboard case. We’ve since changed our tune and focused on ways to prevent pedals popping off:

• The Recipe: 250-stem Dual Lock on the board + 400-stem on the pedals.

• The Insurance: We now ensure - to the best of our ability - that the case foam applies pressure to every pedal. This way, even in the rare event a pedal looses its grip, it stays put instead of "bashing around" and damaging the rest of the rig.

3. Power Supply Faux Pas

The old board featured a Voodoo Lab Mondo. While a great company, the Mondo is a linear supply and isn't as well-shielded as modern options. In some cases, it can introduce noise into your audio lines if pedals are mounted directly on top of it or close by.

• The 2025 Choice: I’d go with a Cioks DC7 and/or DC8. They are low-profile, offer massive current specs per outlet, and are shielded to allow for quiet operation.

4. Protecting the Vulnerable "Power Tap"

The 2015 build had a power tap for a buffered volume pedal mod sticking out on the far right - you can see it in the photos. It was a "crack-off" accident waiting to happen. Today, I would:

• Inset the pedal by 2cm (about an inch) to provide a protective "buffer zone" from the boards edge.

• Move the tap to the left side (the interior) to keep it away from passing feet or stage hands.  The downside to this option is it would require drilling another hole in the pedal which the customer may not approve. 
  

5. Midi Clock Swap  

Choosing the right midi controller (and in this case, midi clock) is important.  You want something easy to program and use in live scenarios. 

• MIDI Control: I would swap the old "Time Traveler" clock for a Selah Effects Quartz. It’s much less "clunky" and features a single, easy-to-hit foot switch that’s essential when you’re rushing to sync tempos mid-song.
  
  

What We Got Right (And Still Do!)

Not everything from 2015 was a roast! There are three "Goodwood Standards" we still use today:

1. Cable Looping: Instead of taking the shortest path, we loop the cable past the jack. This builds in a few inches of slack, making it easy to swap a side-mount pedal for a top-mount pedal later without a complete re-wire.

2. Labeling: Every single plug on the switcher should be labeled. If someone trashes your board or a cable pops out, you can troubleshoot in seconds with total confidence.
   

3. Back Row Logic: We put "always-on" pedals or pedals controlled by the looper in the back. Since you don't need to stomp them, they don't need prime real estate closer to the player.

Final Thoughts

A pedalboard should be a tool that lets you get back to playing guitar, not a puzzle you have to solve on stage. It’s been a wild 10 years of learning and I'm sure I'll have many more lessons I've learned from in another 10 years! 

Happy tone chasing fellow gear nerds. 

Products Featured in the 2015 Build